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Appalachian Blue Ridge heritage hardwood gallery - plank hard wood flooring

 

Solid 3/4" Thick, Premium Hardwood Flooring
   Cut Square Both Ends


  3/4" Thick x Random Width x Random Length 

(average 1' through 8' Lengths )

Nominal Widths:

   3",  

  4", 

   5",

  6" 

Actual Face:  

   2-11/16"

3-11/16"

4-11/16"

5-11/16"


Two Flooring Types
*Prices are the same for Micro-Bevel and Straight Edge.


MICRO-BEVEL:  Tongue and Grooved, Pre-Sanded (Not Pre-Finished)

Ready to install and finish -- We feature the micro-bevel because it is do-it-yourself friendly and saves a lot of time and money to achieve the same results as straight edge flooring, which must be sanded.   The micro bevel cut is very small and 3 coats of polyurethane tend to make it even smaller.  Some people ask if the micro bevel is a “dirt catcher”.  The maintenance of micro-bevel is exactly the same as for straight edge.   Use a dry dust mop and vacuum occasionally. 

Note:  For very large flooring jobs, it is easier to rent a low speed buffer with 100 or 120 grit Scotch Bright Pad to clean floor, or sand between coats.


STRAIGHT EDGE,
Tongue and Grooved, Not Pre-Sanded (Not Pre-Finished)
(Must be Sanded by Customer!)

For many years, the only way to sand a straight edge floor was with a machine called a drum sander.  This is what professional floor finishers use.  You can rent them at a rental store and some do-it-yourselfers use them.  They are very heavy, difficult to use, and easy to make mistakes with, also a different machine must be used called an edge sander around the edge of the room. 
With the new milling machinery used today, the fit of straight edge floors is much more exact and flush.   Now there is a new type of sander that is available from your local Rent-All.  Flecto’s Varathane DIY floor finishing system is a 130-pound, walk-behind Squar-Buff oribital sander with a 12x18” base.  The pad jiggles around to cut through the finish with dime-sized swirls. To use the machine, you simply
stick various grit, adhesive backed 3M sandpaper sheets to a large 3M Scotch-Brite pad and set the rubber-toothed sander base on top.  Then let the weight of the tool do the work.  The biggest differences between the new orbital unit and the traditional belt sander are that the orbital sander is far less aggressive and much easier to control.


Measuring Tips: 
To calculate square footage: Multiply the width by the length for each room, which gives you the square footage for each individual room. When measuring your room, measure to the widest part of the room (width) and to the longest part of the room (length), as if it were a square or rectangle. Be sure and include closets and other alcoves in your measurement.  To be on the safe side, add an additional 5% - 10% to your final square footage for waste to arrive at the total square footage you need to purchase. Allowing for waste is important when installing hardwood floors because cutting and trimming boards to fit must be considered. Furthermore, the installer needs to have extra flooring to allow for a matching pattern and blending color variations. Consult with your installer if you are uncertain as to the complexity of the installation and to make sure you order an adequate amount of flooring. It is good to have a little left over in case repairs are needed in the future.


Shipping:
 

Most hardwood floor orders are shipped via motor freight  within 2 weeks to the continental US only.  Orders are shipped on pallets and shrink wrapped to prevent moisture.

Please read important handling information below.

 

 

 


Preventing Moisture Problems:

BEFORE DELIVERY: The building must be closed-in with windows and exterior doors in place and sheetrock installed with at least one coat of paint.  Heating and cooling systems should be operating for at least a week to reduce overall moisture content in the house.  Never pour concrete after flooring is delivered. 

(To maintain dryness levels, avoid unloading in rain, snow, or excessively humid conditions.)

AFTER DELIVERY:  (HANDLING & STORAGE) Flooring should be stored in a dry, well ventilated closed building. Flooring should be allowed to acclimate 3-4 days to the equilibrium moisture content of the area.  Flooring should be broken up into small lots and stored in the rooms where it will be installed. 

The MOST frequent cause of moisture problems in a new home is moisture trapped within the structure during construction and/or a continuing source of excess moisture from the basement, crawl space, or slab. These moisture sources can cause problems with wood flooring. A properly placed vapor barrier can prevent or reduce problem moisture from entering the home.

 Hardwood flooring is kiln-dried to 6-9% moisture content. To maintain dryness levels check for the following conditions and if they exist, correct them.   Water or excessive moisture underneath or in the house, insufficient ventilation under the house, wet subfloors, inadequate moisture barriers.

WOOD JOIST CONSTRUCTION For a new home with wood joist construction, after the roof, windows and exterior doors are installed, place 6 mil polyethylene film over the crawl space earth as soon as possible. Cover the earth I00%. Overlap the sheets; turn up at foundation walls, and weight down to avoid dislocation.   Vents must be provided to supply adequate cross ventilation.  The floor joists must be fully insulated before installing hardwood flooring to ensure that moisture does not work its way into the plywood sub floor.

SUB FLOOR-PREFERRED -3/4” thick plywood

CONCRETE SLAB CONSTRUCTION: Hardwood flooring should be protected from moisture migration through a slab. Proper on grade or above grade construction requires that a vapor barrier be in place beneath the slab. ALWAYS perform appropriate moisture tests to determine suitability of the slab before installing wood flooring.

A vapor barrier of 6-mil polyethylene should ALWAYS be installed on top of the slab to further protect the wood flooring.  Attach ¾” plywood to concrete slab after 6 mil plastic is put down.


Installing your hardwood floor:

Hardwood Flooring should always be stored in a dry place, not garage or basement.  It should be stacked inside the house and allowed to acclimate 3-4 days before installation.  In new construction, heating or AC systems should be at occupancy level for at least a week before installing the flooring. 

INSTALLING HARDWOOD FLOORING ON A PLYWOOD SUB FLOOR
Measure 1/2" from wall and mark with a chalk line: The first course of flooring
will follow this line. The 1/2" space on both sides of the room allows the flooring
to expand and contract. The Base/Shoe Mould will cover this 1/2" gap.      

Install3.gif (5547 bytes)

A.)   Pre-drill and  nail along edge of first course with 2" finish nails.
B.)  Pre-drill and blind nail through tongue with 2" finish nail at a 45 degree angle every 10-12".   Use a nail set to bury all nail heads below the surface of the wood at least 1/16".The second  and successive courses will be nailed only through the tongue. Once you have come off the  wall several courses, you can use a flooring nailer with clips of 2" flooring nails (available from any tool rental).

Lay out 3-4 courses ahead loosely on floor and stagger the joints. Use a block
of wood and hammer to tighten up boards in a course before you nail it off
(check twice-nail once!) You should only need to trim the last board in each
course to fit. The last few courses in the room will need to be nailed by hand
where the flooring nailer will not fit. The last piece of the floor will be pre-drilled
and face nailed leaving 1/2" gap for base/shoe mould to cover.


Finishing:

Micro-Bevel, Pre-sanded:  Once the flooring is completely installed, give it a good vacuuming. Look closely for any scuffs, scratches, or raised edges on the butt ends. Our micro-bevel flooring has been pre-sanded to 120 grit. Using a sanding block, with 120 grit, simply sand out any imperfections. Vacuum the floor again, then wipe it off with a tack rag. Apply oil base or water base finish, following the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Straight Edge Flooring must be drum sanded by customer before finishing!

Using Min-Wax Oil Base Polyurethane Floor Finish, brush on the first coat with the grain, 2-3 courses at a time all the way across the room. With the next set of 2-3 courses, your brush will catch the edge of the micro-bevel from the last set.

Use only high quality all natural bristle brushes. Use real Turpentine to clean brushes at least two times when finished.

The first coat of finish will slightly raise the grain of the wood. When it is dry, you can rub your hand over it and feel it. In order of the degree of raising grain is: Walnut (the most), Hickory, Red Oak, White Oak, Ash, Cherry, Maple (the least). Use the 220 grit 3M Garnet Sandpaper. Tear the 8-1/2" x 11" sheet in half and fold in thirds. Sand very lightly with the grain just enough to cut the raised grain. It is almost as if you are rubbing the floor to clean it. Vacuum off the floor and wipe with clean cotton cloth. Vacuum again thoroughly. Apply a liberal second coat with the grain, using as few strokes as possible. Applying a third coat ensures that the wood's grain is sealed and offers the best protection against wear.

 With Water Base finishes, the procedure is the same as above except it usually takes 4 coats.  Water Base will raise the grain considerably more on the first coat, but again the finishing is the same.

NOTE:  Always follow manufacturer's instructions and recommendations for the floor finishing product you are using.

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