Thick, Premium Hardwood Flooring
Cut Square Both Ends
3/4" Thick x Random Width x Random Length
(average 1' through 8'
*Prices are the same for Micro-Bevel and Straight Edge.
Tongue and Grooved, Pre-Sanded
Ready to install and
finish -- We feature the
micro-bevel because it is do-it-yourself friendly and saves a lot of time
and money to achieve the same results as straight edge flooring, which
must be sanded.
The micro bevel cut is very small and 3 coats of polyurethane tend
to make it even smaller. Some
people ask if the micro bevel is a “dirt
maintenance of micro-bevel is exactly the same as for straight edge. Use a dry dust mop and vacuum
Note: For very large flooring jobs, it
is easier to rent a low speed buffer with 100 or 120 grit Scotch Bright
Pad to clean floor, or sand between coats.
Tongue and Grooved,
(Must be Sanded by Customer!)
For many years, the only way to
sand a straight edge floor was with a machine called a drum sander. This is what professional floor
finishers use. You can rent
them at a rental store and some do-it-yourselfers use them. They are very heavy, difficult to
use, and easy to make mistakes with, also a different machine must be used
called an edge sander around the edge of the room.
With the new milling machinery used
today, the fit of straight edge floors is much more exact and flush. Now there is a new type of sander
that is available from your local Rent-All. Flecto’s Varathane DIY floor
finishing system is a 130-pound, walk-behind Squar-Buff oribital sander
with a 12x18” base. The pad
jiggles around to cut through the finish with dime-sized
swirls. To use the machine, you
stick various grit, adhesive backed 3M sandpaper sheets to a
large 3M Scotch-Brite pad and set the rubber-toothed sander base on
top. Then let the weight of
the tool do the work. The
biggest differences between the new orbital unit and the traditional belt
sander are that the orbital sander is far less aggressive and much easier
To calculate square footage:
Multiply the width by the length for each room, which gives you the square
footage for each individual room. When measuring your room, measure to the widest part of the room
(width) and to the longest part of the room (length), as if it were a
square or rectangle. Be sure and include closets and other alcoves
in your measurement. To be
on the safe side, add an additional 5% - 10% to your final square
footage for waste to arrive at the total square footage you need to purchase.
Allowing for waste is important when installing hardwood floors because
cutting and trimming boards to fit must be considered. Furthermore, the installer
needs to have extra flooring to allow for a matching pattern and
blending color variations. Consult with your installer if you are uncertain as to the complexity of
the installation and to make sure you order an adequate amount of flooring.
It is good to have a little left over in case repairs are needed in
hardwood floor orders are shipped via motor freight within 2 weeks to the
continental US only. Orders are shipped on pallets and shrink wrapped to
Please read important
handling information below.
The building must be closed-in with
windows and exterior doors in place and sheetrock installed with at least one coat of
paint. Heating and cooling systems should be
operating for at least a week to reduce overall moisture content in the house. Never pour concrete after flooring is
(To maintain dryness levels, avoid
unloading in rain, snow, or excessively humid conditions.)
DELIVERY: (HANDLING & STORAGE) Flooring should be stored in a dry, well ventilated closed building. Flooring should be
allowed to acclimate 3-4 days to the equilibrium moisture content of the area. Flooring should be broken up into small lots and
stored in the rooms where it will be installed.
The MOST frequent
cause of moisture problems in a new home is moisture trapped within the structure
during construction and/or a continuing source of excess moisture from the basement, crawl
space, or slab. These moisture sources can cause problems with wood flooring.
A properly placed vapor barrier can prevent or reduce problem moisture from entering the
flooring is kiln-dried to 6-9% moisture content. To maintain dryness levels check for the
following conditions and if they exist, correct them.
Water or excessive moisture underneath or in the house, insufficient
ventilation under the house, wet subfloors, inadequate moisture barriers.
WOOD JOIST CONSTRUCTION:
new home with wood joist construction, after the roof, windows and exterior doors are
installed, place 6 mil polyethylene film over the crawl space earth as soon as possible.
Cover the earth I00%. Overlap the sheets; turn up at foundation walls, and weight down to
avoid dislocation. Vents must be
provided to supply adequate cross ventilation.
floor joists must be fully insulated before installing hardwood flooring to ensure that
moisture does not work its way into the plywood sub floor.
CONSTRUCTION: Hardwood flooring
should be protected from moisture migration through a slab. Proper on grade or above grade
construction requires that a vapor barrier be in place beneath the slab. ALWAYS
perform appropriate moisture tests to determine suitability of the slab before installing
A vapor barrier of 6-mil polyethylene
should ALWAYS be installed on top of the slab to further protect the wood flooring. Attach ¾ plywood to concrete slab after 6 mil
plastic is put down.
your hardwood floor:
Hardwood Flooring should always
be stored in a dry place, not garage or basement.
It should be stacked inside the house and allowed to
acclimate 3-4 days before installation. In new construction,
heating or AC systems should be at occupancy level for at
least a week before installing the flooring.
HARDWOOD FLOORING ON A PLYWOOD SUB FLOOR
Measure 1/2" from wall and mark
with a chalk line: The first course of flooring
will follow this line. The 1/2" space on both sides of the room allows the flooring
to expand and contract. The Base/Shoe Mould will cover this 1/2"
Pre-drill and nail along edge of first course with 2" finish nails.
B.) Pre-drill and blind nail through tongue with 2" finish nail at
a 45 degree angle every 10-12". Use a nail set to bury all nail heads
below the surface of the wood at least 1/16".The second and successive courses
will be nailed only through the tongue. Once you have come off the wall several
courses, you can use a flooring nailer with clips of 2" flooring nails (available
from any tool rental).
Lay out 3-4 courses ahead loosely on floor
and stagger the joints. Use a block
of wood and hammer to tighten up boards in a course before you nail it off
(check twice-nail once!) You should only need to trim the last board in each
course to fit. The last few courses in the room will need to be nailed by hand
where the flooring nailer will not fit. The last piece of the floor will be pre-drilled
and face nailed leaving 1/2" gap for base/shoe mould to cover.
Micro-Bevel, Pre-sanded: Once the
flooring is completely installed,
give it a good vacuuming. Look closely for any scuffs, scratches, or raised edges on the
butt ends. Our micro-bevel flooring has been pre-sanded to 120 grit. Using a sanding
with 120 grit, simply sand out any imperfections. Vacuum the floor again, then wipe it off
a tack rag. Apply oil base or water base finish, following the manufacturers
The first coat of finish will
slightly raise the grain of the wood. When it is dry, you can rub your hand over it and
feel it. In order of the degree of raising grain is: Walnut (the most), Hickory, Red Oak,
White Oak, Ash, Cherry, Maple (the least). Use the 220 grit 3M Garnet Sandpaper. Tear the
8-1/2" x 11" sheet in half and fold in thirds. Sand very lightly with the
grain just enough to cut the raised grain. It is almost as if you are rubbing the
floor to clean it. Vacuum off the floor and wipe with clean cotton cloth. Vacuum again
thoroughly. Apply a liberal second coat with the grain, using as few strokes as possible.
Applying a third coat ensures that the wood's grain is sealed and offers the best
protection against wear.
With Water Base finishes, the procedure
is the same as above except it usually takes 4 coats. Water Base will raise the
grain considerably more on the first coat, but again the finishing is the same.
Straight Edge Flooring must be drum sanded by customer before finishing!
Using Min-Wax Oil Base Polyurethane
Floor Finish, brush on the first coat with the grain, 2-3 courses at a time all the way
across the room. With the next set of 2-3 courses, your brush will catch the edge of the
micro-bevel from the last set.
Use only high quality all
natural bristle brushes. Use real Turpentine to clean brushes at least two times when
NOTE: Always follow manufacturer's instructions
and recommendations for the floor finishing product you are using.
Ready to Order